Next, it’s time for the base and high cabinets. Before you begin, note all plumbing, power sources and other utilities. Measure these locations carefully, and, using a hole saw, cut the appropriate openings before each cabinet is installed.
In the following steps, you’ll install the legs at the front of the cabinets, and secure a cabinet support board to the wall. This is a length of particleboard packed together with the toe-kick panels. If you prefer, you can use legs on the back of the cabinets in lieu of the support board.
1. Marking the level lines Using the high point of the floor that you marked earlier, measure up 4 5/16". Use a 4 foot level to draw a line on the wall at this height. Now measure 34 1/2" from the same point on the floor and draw another level line. This will help you level the top of the base cabinets.
2. Cut base cabinet support boards Measure the length of the base and high cabinets to be installed. Do not include the wall space behind appliances. Cut the base cabinet support board into measured lengths. Cut the board 1 1/2" shorter where a side toekick is planned.
3. Secure the support board Align the top edge of the support board with the level line you marked at 4 5/16". Secure it to the studs. Should the end of the support board fall between studs, secure it to the wall with a heavy-duty anchor.
4. Start with the corner cabinet Attach legs to the front edges of the cabinets according to package instructions. If you are not using the support board, attach back legs as well. Always use a back leg at the end of the run, as this makes attaching the side toe-kick easier.
Note: Legs can be shared by two cabinets, see the instructions. Place the corner cabinet against the wall so that its back edge is resting on the support board. Through the holes at the top back corners of the cabinet, mark where to drill for the fixing screw. Set the cabinet aside.
Note: If there´s no corner cabinet, install the cabinet that will fit against the back and side walls, allowing the filler space shown on your plan.
5. Drill, anchor and screw Using the appropriate drill bit and type of screw for your wall material, drill holes at the spots you’ve marked. If there’s no stud, insert a heavy-duty anchor then the screw and tighten halfway.
6. Install the corner cabinet Lift the corner cabinet back into place and adjust the legs so that it stands level.
7. Secure the cabinet to the wall Tighten the screws, but not completely. Assure that the cabinet is level front-toback and side-to-side. Hint: Installing the LAZY SUSAN is easier now than after the countertops are in place.
8. Install the next base cabinet Mark, drill, and insert the screws for the next cabinet. Lift the cabinet into place, carefully aligning it with the previous cabinet and securing them together with a clamp.
9. Drill through the cabinet walls For all doors except ULRIKSDAL use a 3/16" drill bit to drill through the fourth holes from the top and bottom edges. For ULRIKSDAL door, drill through the second holes from the top/bottom. When installing a drawer cabinet, drill through the fifth hole from the top.
10. Fasten cabinets together Place the connection screws enclosed with the cabinet frames into the holes and tighten. Continue in this fashion with the remaining base cabinets.
11. Install the high cabinet The high cabinet should be installed the same way you installed the base cabinets. If you´re using a cover panel on one side, mount this before installing the cabinet using the enclosed instructions.
12. Tighten all the screws When all base cabinets have been mounted and aligned, tighten all screws into the wall. Now the high cabinet is in place, make the final adjustments to the wall cabinets and tighten all the screws.
13. Measure filler pieces Check the wall with your level to see if it is even and flat. If so, measure the distance from the wall to the cabinet and mark this distance at the top and bottom of the filler piece. Note: If the wall is uneven, skip to picture 16.
14. Cut filler pieces With a handsaw: draw a line connecting the top and bottom marks on the front side of the filler, and cut it with the face side up. Jigsaw: mark both sides of the filler. Put masking tape over the line on the front side to prevent chipping. Cut it from the back side.
15. Install filler pieces Put the filler piece in place with the cut edge against the wall. Attach by drilling a screw through the predrilled holes from the inside of the cabinet. Install other filler pieces in the same way. When you’ve finished installing all filler pieces, go to picture 17.
16. If the wall is uneven If the wall is not level and flat, the filler must be cut to conform to the wall’s shape. To do this, you’ll need to make a template for tracing the wall’s shape onto the filler. A piece of thin plywood or heavy cardboard makes a suitable template. You’ll also need a measuring tape, pencil and compass.
Cut the template material so that it’s the same height as the cabinet. Hold it in place where the filler will be installed. Open the compass a couple of inches and place the point against the wall. Holding the compass horizontal and level, follow the line of the wall so that the pencil traces a clear line on the template. To cut the template to the correct width, measure the distance from the farthest point on the wall to the cabinet. Find the same point on the template and mark it. Draw a straight line from this point to the top and bottom of the template to form the flat edge that will fit against the cabinet. Cut the template and check that it fits, then trace the shape onto the fller and follow the cutting directions in picture 14.
17. Prepare the area to be caulked To produce an airtight seal between the wall and the cabinet, you’ll need to caulk around the filler pieces. Choose a well made latex brand (it doesn’t need to be waterproof.) Tape alongside the area to be caulked. Apply a bead of caulk into the crevice.
18. The finishing touch Dab your finger into a 3-in-1 oil to prevent the caulk from sticking, then run your finger along the caulk, forcing it into the crevice. Remove the tape for an airtight seal and a straight edge.
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